The life of a restoration

Welcome folks! This page is a step-by-step of one of my restorations. Before I have to start I 
have to thank Bob Usasi for all his knowledge and support. He was a mentor to me and without 
him I probably wouldn't be restoring bikes today.

The specific bicycle this step-by-step features is a 1935 Schwinn Motorbike, standard model 
(no tank or rack). This is the first year Schwinn produced the motorbike, which had a one-year 
only double diamond frame. The left over supply was used in early 36. Notice in the pictures 
the frame tubes that run from the area near the seat post clamp to the rear dropouts are straight, 
not curved. This particular bicycle began as a Mead Ranger. Schwinn produced a majority of
the frames for Mead Bicycle Company.

As you can see, the bicycle is pretty much a carcass. A majority of the parts are incorrect, which
means this is basically going to be an expensive, ground-up resto. The only parts I kept were the 
wheels, seat, bars and drop stand. I couldn't even use the crank because it was dated 36. Mead 
received all the previous year model frames from Schwinn.  They were equipped with current year parts.
The sweetheart sprocket is technically incorrect for the motorbikes, however, they did come on a majority. 
It should take the sprocket that is similar to a phantom with much narrower tines. They made two versions, 
one which is completely flat and slightly thicker (saw blade) and one that is indented or embossed near 
the teeth.  35 to 39 took the saw blade version. The truss rods are incorrect also; B-models and higher 
end models took the curved rods, not the angled. Well, now that we have some basics covered  lets start.

The Prep

I sandblasted the frame and fork at a local shop for $1 a minute. I blasted two frames and forks and 
it took roughly 8 minutes. Believe me, this is much faster and more convenient than hand sanding or 
stripping the bike. However, I don't sandblast fenders. The metal is too thin and they could warp. 
Once the blasting was done I was able to pin point imperfections in the metal and do some patch 
work. As I mentioned the bicycle was a Mead, which means the headbadge screws are located in 
a different spot than a regular Schwinn.

This wasn't a big deal. I patched the old holes with JB weld.

Then I measured and drilled new holes. The tricky part is tapping the new holes. I had to use old 
headbadge screws and slowly work them in and out. Once it gets tough to turn, back out and start 
over. Don't force it or you will snap the head off. Then you are in trouble.

Once the JB weld cured I sanded it smooth. No one would ever notice. Perfect.

Now I had to do some patch work around some of the welds and any dents in the frame. Normally 
I wouldn't touch any of the welds, they weren't perfect from the factory, and a proper restoration 
should try to match the factory specs as close a possible. However, this bike had one sloppy weld
that looked like a drip. I didn't want anyone thinking it was a run once the frame was painted. JB 
weld was used to fix this.

There were some dents on the top of the seatpost clamp and on the frame that also needed to be 
filled.

Finding fenders was difficult because they are the exact same fenders as an aerocycle. 
However, I found a pair and they needed to be rolled, slightly trimmed and JB welded in some 
areas. Nothing major.

The Paint Process

I use a Devilbiss HVLP gravity feed gun. I have one tip for primer and one for color. Most people 
use a cheap gun to shoot the primer because it can eventually ruin your gun by clogging it. I 
disassemble my gun completely every time I use it and clean it thoroughly to avoid this. Before you
began painting you want to stick an old seat post in the frame for handling. I hang everything using 
clothes hanger type wire. I should have taken pictures of the frame hanging but I didn't.

Make sure your primer is a good autobody fill primer. Lay it on THICK and don't worry about runs 
or drips. You are going to be sanding the frame down post priming anyway. Once everything is 
primed let it sit for a day, than you can began sanding. Remember, EVERYTHING is in the prep. 
Your final finish can only be as good as the surface you are spraying it on. I use 220 grit and make 
sure you get in every nook and cranny. If you sand down to metal in some spots that is okay. You 
should sand the primer down very thin near the fender rivet holes.  If it is too thick, the paint around
the fender rivets will crack when you rivet the fenders. Wear a dust mask because particles will be all|
over in the air. It should take you about an hour to sand down the frame and other parts. Take your time,
 this is the most important step.

Now you can began spraying your base color. I use an acrylic enamel paint. I think a base/clear 
looks a little too shiny. Besides, enamel was used at the factory. Your first coat should be a very light 
tack coat. You should still be able to see the primer through the paint. Let it dry for about 15 minutes 
before you put your first thicker coat on. Again, take your time spraying. Patience is definitely key. If 
you try to put too much on it is going to run, then you are screwed. You basically have to let the frame 
dry, sand it with 220 again and start over. Some runs can be wet-sanded out, but the deep ones will 
have a little discoloration. It is best to just start over if your paint runs.  Why do it half assed.  I usually 
start by hanging the frame upside down and starting on the bottom. Then I flip the frame and spray the 
top. Make sure you get enough material on the bike. You are going to be sanding and buffing on it later 
and you don't want to buff through the paint. After you are finished spraying you should let it dry for 
about 2 days. Why rush, let the paint cure a little. After the two days, I usually wet sand everything 
with 1500 before I spray my two-tone to remove any orange peel or dust specs. Most people might 
wait until they have the two tone on before wet sanding. However, if you go through the whole process 
of the two-tone and sand through the paint, you have to do some good patch work, or start back at 
square one. Believe me, that is a lot of wasted time and effort. It takes a long time to tape off for the 
two-tone. When you sand the frame the nice shiny paint becomes dull, don't worry, this will all buff 
out and be nice and bright again.

Once the base coat is prepared and everything looks good it is time for the two-tone. I don't use 
stencils when painting. I use a reference frame, fork, fenders and 3M pinstripping tape. It is flexible 
and has very clean edges.

Take careful measurements and apply them to your project.

Once the pinstripping tape is applied, mask off the rest of the bike with masking tape. Then sand the 
area where the two-tone will be applied with 320 grit. Get as close to the edges of the tape as possible. 
Sand right over the tape if you have to. Do the same for the fenders and fork.

There are different patterns of fenders for different years. Notice the width of the dart and curve of the stripe for earlier years as compared to a 38 and up.

The stripping also had different styles. For example, 1935-37 had only stripes on the rear fender, no 
dart. In 35-36 the stripes were blocked/boxed off with pinstripes where the rear frame tubing runs 
through the fender. 1937 and up the striping runs all the way through the indentation. A full dart was 
applied to the rear fender in 38 and up. The stripping on the front fender also varied from year to 
year. During 35-36 the stripe was boxed off in the back of the fork indentation and faded out in the 
front leaving about an inch with no stripe at all. It almost seemed as they striped the fenders when 
they were on the bikes during those years.

Once you have everything taped off it is time to shot the two-tone or secondary color. This is a quick 
process. You can hold the parts in your hand while you paint them. After you finish, let them sit for a day 
before you peel the tape off.  I was rummaging the swap at memory lanes and  I found some Schwinn paint.
It is funny, because the guy selling it was from WI.  He cleaned out a Schwinn shop in my home town. 
So this paint came from my local bike shop. I thought that was cool.  Well, I bought the paint for the can.
Later, I was curious and opened it up.  It looked like muddy water.  The paint had all settled on the bottom and 
was as thick as tar.  I figured, what the hell, and began stirring it.  I couldn't believe my eyes, it came back!
So then I thought, what the hell again, and tried using it.  It sprayed awesome. I didn't even have to wet sand.  
It left the perfect most original finish I have seen.  I wish I could find a crate of this stuff.

Two days have gone by, time to peel.

After you peel the tape you need to sand down the edges of the secondary color so it is flush with the other 
paint. You shouldn't feel an edge. Most people skip this step. I always see nicely painted bikes with edges. 
Your goal should be to match the factory specs as close as possible. I use 1500 grit wet sand paper to 
perform this task. Then I polish the paint with rubbing compound.

Once you have completed the edge sanding you are ready to pinstripe. This is the step that is going to make 
or break the overall appearance of the bike. So take your time. I use to same 3M plastic tape to mask off 
the lines as I did to mask off the two-tone. The best paint to use is One Shot signer's paint - bright red color. 
I use a long fine haired brush to apply the paint. Both of these items can be purchased at your local artist 
store. Before applying the paint, you want to apply a little reducer. The paint straight out of the can is too 
thick. This will thin the paint and give it a much more original look.

Lay the tape for the lines. You can only do one side of the spears at a time.

Once you have laid the tape and mixed the paint you are ready to go.  Use your free hand to steady the painting hand.  I usually go over the area twice to assure enough paint is applied.

Once you have the paint applied, pull the tape up right away.  If you let it dry with the tape on you will have those unwanted edges. 

Now, when you pull the tape you may have imperfections or paint where you don't want it; or some stripes may be wider than desired.  Don't worry about it, just leave them, this will be corrected later.  Let the pinstripes dry for a day and finish the other parts of the bike. 

Remember, the pinstripes do not wrap around the bottom of the frame. They just end. 

YOU ARE ALMOST DONE.  Now you just need to do some minor cosmetic work on the pinstripes.  If you look closely at the pinstripes, you will see little edges or blotches.  In order to remove them you must lay tape back over the pinstripes so only the edges are showing and then rub out the imperfect edges with a rubbing compound.  Remember, the pinstripes weren't absolutely perfect from the factory.  Some spots were slightly wider, etc. It is best to look at an original bike.

Bingo, you are done with the paint. Congratulate yourself, that was not an easy process.  Now just polish out any imperfections.  Don't forget to put on any decals and the badge!

1933 to 1936 took the oval badge.

                       For stage two of the restoration click here :  THE PARTS